I went home and got my Keystone Driller boiler ratchet. I then had the crew pull the couplings together using 1" B7 grade all thread temporary studs, and sock up good on them. We rolled the couplings around until we found the approximate best orientation with the least amount of metal to be removed. We are also talking about a location where there was no powered drill motor or mag base drill that could get in. We are talking about holes that were nominally 1 5/8" diameter, with a "light drive fit" on the bodies of the studs, and hubs with flanges around 3" thick apiece. The turbine shaft coupling was off in two directions- not all the holes were equally spaced, nor were they all on the same radius bolt circle. The Philly Gear coupling bolts were dead on for equal spacing on the bolt circle. It had apparently been laid out by someone using dividers and a prick punch. The turbine shaft coupling was another story. We had a rigid flanged coupling on a speed increasing gearbox that was drilled/bored at the Philadelphia Gear's plant. On one job, we got handed a real joker in the deck. The holes for the studs have to be line-reamed, using an adjustable or expanding reamer. When certain turbine/generator shaft couplings are fitted in the field, the bores for the body-bound studs are sometimes not cleaned up to finished diameter on one or the other of the coupling halves. Believe it or not, these boiler ratchets or ratchet drillers still find use in modern work. I also have the "old man"- the drilling post with the slotted "foot". I've got a Keystone "boiler ratchet"- another name for the tool you've got.
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